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Removing Pet Urine Odor

Both male and female neutered and whole cats and dogs will sometimes urinate on:

  • walls, floors,
  • doors,
  • door frames,
  • window frames,
  • furniture and
  • clothing
if your pets are ill or simply unhappy with something in their life. This is their way of making a statement of illness or displeasure.

Any time a pet who normally does not urinate outside it designated toilet area begins to do so, the very first thing to check for is some kind of urinary tract infection or disorder. Your Vet can check for any disorder that could be causing the unacceptable behavior, treat it and possibility save your pets life in doing so.

Once illness has been excluded from the possible causes for urinating in inappropriate places, the next thing to consider is that your pet is unhappy with something in its life. This could include any of the following:

  • A new person, baby or pet in the house
  • A person or pet leaving the house
  • A wild animals or pets outside the house
  • A new brand of food
  • A new brand of litter
  • A visiting person or pet urinating in the house
  • The litter box not being emptied or scooped often enough
  • Excessive litter box odor
  • Returning from an extended stay at the Vet or kennel or trainer
  • Domestic squabbling or fighting
  • A child, adult or other pet teasing or torment the pet that is urinating inappropriately.
  • A response to harsh discipline of the pet or others in the household

Urine, unlike hormonal spray, has very little odor as it exits the pet, and it is usually sterile or without bacteria unless the pet has some sort of infection. As the water evaporates from the urine and the urid acid becomes more concentrated it breaks down into ammonia gas urea salt. The really nasty odor produced by urine residue (especially on humid days) is mercaptin gas (the odorant put into natural gas and propane) which is produced by a chemical reaction between the urea salt, hydrogen and sulphur in the presence of water (as a catalyst). A tiny amount of urea salt and as little as 50% relative humidity is quite enough to produce a lot of very bad smelling mercaptin gas. This gas that can fill a room or a house with bad smelling, which makes the actual source of the odor very difficult to find.

If the contaminated area(s) can not be visually spotted, the most effective way to find them is to completely air out the room and sniff around until you find the specific area(s) that needs treatment. Another very effective of urine location technique and it is effective about 70 to 80% of the time requires a UV light source. A very bright UV light sources can be acquired on this web site for less than $10. Illuminate the walls and floor from 3 or 4 feet away from the suspected surface. Using a UV light to illuminate the areas will sometimes but not always light up with a pale yellow to bluish green depending on the presence and chemical makeup of florescent material in the animals food and urine.

Preparing the affected area before applying OdorXit Concentrate is very important to successfully eliminating the odor. Washing walls with TSP and using rubber gloves and a plastic dish scrubber or brush, then rinsing with a wet sponge or rag will remove most of the surface material but will not remove the part that has soaked in and bonded to the wallboard, paneling or grout but it does reduce the amount of material that OdorXit must neutralize. Click here for a comprehensive discription of working with Dry Wall.

When treating flooring or horizontal surfaces, mix OdorXit Concentrate 1 part Concentrate with 30 parts water. On vertical surfaces, mix 1 part concentrate to 15 parts water. In both cases wet the area so that it takes 5 to 15 minutes minimum to dry.

If urine has run behind baseboards, (a phenomenon called capillary action) urine has the opportunity to soak deeply into the base board and adjacent wall, making it difficult to treat. It's often necessary to remove and treat or discard the baseboard and wall board involved to remove the odor.

Because urine on walls is very often mixed with scent spray and scent sprays are so much stronger than normal odors, one application of cleaner and OdorXit may not completely eliminate the odor. The saving grace is that scent markings are usually small. Therefore, large quantities of even high concentration OdorXit are not normally necessary. Again OdorXit must be allowed to soak into the affected area for it to work. If the spray is on the wall, apply OdorXit to the affected area, wetting the wall, the baseboard, and the area of the floor adjacent to the wall (spray splashes).

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If the spray is on a piece of carpet, have the area professionally cleaned before applying OdorXit. Click here for a comprehensive discription of working with carpet and padding

For more information on exactly how to treat urine odor on a wide variety of surfaces and material check out the urine odor section of the Odor Wizard to select the one that more closely addresses your spedific need.

DO NOT USE ODORXIT CONCENTRATE UNDILUTED OR WITH LESS THAN 15 OUNCES OF WATER PER OUNCE OF ODORXIT CONCENTRATE

Many people believe that if a little will work well, a lot will work better. In the case of OdorXit this is conditionally true, at least for scent spray odor control. The down side to this is that the OdorXit smell often lingers for many days. Spraying unscented ammonia diluted at least 1 part of ammonia to 4 parts of water on the area that is retaining the OdorXit smell will help a lot. Again, more is not better!

OdorXit Magic is very fast and effective on urine and scent spray, but it is generally not a permanent solution to the problem requiring reapplication every 2 to 12 weeks.

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Click here for a comprehensive discription of working with wood flooring.
Click here for a comprehensive discription of working with concrete and ceramic tile flooring









Copyright February 2016 Listening Systems Inc. All rights reserved

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