Pet Urine Odor
Both male and female neutered and whole cats and dogs will sometimes urinate on walls, floors, doors, door frames, window
frames, furniture and clothing if they are ill or simply unhappy with something in their life. This is their way of making a statement of illness or displeasure.
Any time a pet who normally does not urinate outside it designated toilet area begins to do so. The very first thing to check for is some kind of urinary tract infection or disorder. Your Vet can check for any disorder that could be causing the unacceptable behavior, treat it and possibility save your pets life in doing so.
Once illness has been excluded from the possible causes for urinating in inappropriate places, the next thing to consider is that your pet is unhappy with something in its life. This could include any of the following:
- A new person, baby or pet in the house
- A person or pet leaving the house
- A wild animals or pets outside the house
- A new brand of food
- A new brand of litter
- A visiting person or pet urinating in the house
- The litter box not being emptied often enough
- Returning from an extended stay at the Vet or kennel or trainer
- Domestic squabbling or fighting
- A child, adult or other pet teasing or torment the pet that is urinating inappropriately.
- A response to harsh discipline of the pet or others in the household
Urine, unlike hormonal spray, has very little odor as it exits the pet, and it is
usually sterile or without bacteria unless the pet has some sort of infection.
The ammonia odor is produced as the water evaporates from the raw urine. Additionally, as the evaporation continues, the uric acid in the urine breaks down into urea salt and more ammonia gas. The really nasty odor produced by urine residue (especially on humid days) is mercaptin gas (the odorant put into natural gas and propane) which is produced by a chemical reaction between the urea salt, hydrogen and sulphur in the presence of water (as a catalyst). A tiny amount of urea salt and as little as 50% relative humidity is quite enough to produce a lot of very bad smelling mercaptin gas. This gas that can fill a room or a house with bad smelling, which makes the actual source of the odor very difficult to find.
If the contaminated area(s) can not be visually spotted, the most effective way to
find them is to completely air out the room and sniff around until you find
the specific area(s) that needs treatment. Another very effective of urine location that is
effective about 70 to 80% of the time requires a
UV light source (long wave UV only).
Several very bright UV light sources can be acquired on this web site for less than $10. Illuminate the walls and floor from 1 to 3 feet away from the surface. Using a UV light to illuminate the areas will sometimes but not always light up with a pale
yellow to bluish green depending on the presence of florescent material in the
animals food and urine.
Preparing the affected area before applying
OdorXit Concentrate is very important to successfully eliminating
the odor. Washing walls with a
and using rubber gloves and a plastic dish scrubber or brush, then rinsing with a wet sponge or rag
will remove most of the surface material but will not remove the part that has
soaked in and bonded to the wallboard, paneling or grout but it does reduce the amount of
material that OdorXit must neutralize.
Click here for a comprehensive discription of working with Dry Wall.
When treating flooring or horizontal surfaces, mix OdorXit Concentrate 1 part Concentrate with 30 parts water. On vertical surfaces, mix 1 part concentrate to 15 parts water. In both cases wet the area to that it takes 5 to 15 minutes minimum to dry.
If urine has run behind baseboards, a phenomenon called capillary action, urine has the opportunity to soak deeply into the base board and adjacent wall, making it difficult to treat. It's often necessary to remove and treat or discard the baseboard and wall board involved to remove the odor.
Because urine on walls is very often mixed with scent spray and scent sprays are so much
stronger than normal odors, one application of cleaner and OdorXit may
not completely eliminate the odor. The saving grace is that scent markings are
usually small. Therefore, large quantities of even high concentration OdorXit are
not normally necessary. Again OdorXit must be allowed to soak into the affected
area for it to work. If the spray is on the wall, apply OdorXit to the affected
area, wetting the wall, the baseboard, and the area of the floor adjacent to the
wall (spray splashes).
If the spray is on a piece of carpet, have
the area professionally cleaned before applying OdorXit. Click here for a comprehensive discription of working with carpet and padding
For more information on exactly how to treat urine odor on a wide variety of surfaces and material check out the urine odor section of the Odor Wizard to select the one that more closely addresses your spedific need.
DO NOT USE ODORXIT CONCENTRATE
UNDILUTED OR WITH LESS THAN 15 OUNCES OF WATER PER OUNCE OF ODORXIT
Many people believe that if a little will work well, a lot will work better.
In the case of OdorXit this is conditionally true, at least for scent spray odor
control. The down side to this is that the OdorXit smell often lingers for many
days. Spraying unscented ammonia diluted at least 1 part of ammonia to 4
parts of water on the area that is retaining the OdorXit smell will help a lot.
Again, more is not better!
OdorXit Magic is very fast and effective on urine and scent spray, but it is
generally not a permanent solution to the problem requiring reapplication every
2 to 12 weeks.
Click here for a comprehensive discription of working with wood flooring.
Click here for a comprehensive discription of working with concrete and ceramic tile flooring